48 Hours in Oxford
A visit to the City of Dreaming Spires, vintage news & events
Visiting Oxford always feels special. It’s like meeting up with an old friend I don’t see very often, but when I do, it feels like no time has passed at all. I spent two years in my thirties working as a designer at Oxford University Press. I didn’t enjoy the commute from London, but I loved the job and being surrounded by the city’s history and beauty.
Inspired by my overnight stay last week I compiled this list of places to eat, see and visit – all within easy walking distance from the station and city centre.
Botanic Gardens
I started with a visit to Oxford’s Botanic Gardens which date back to 1621, making them the oldest in the UK. Entering through the gothic-style main stone portico is like walking into a secret garden where Spring has laid on a special welcome. Discover the pretty walled gardens, planted with medicinal flowering plants, set against the historic backdrop of 17th century architecture. Beyond the physic garden you’ll find a water lily pond and orchard – looking especially green and alive this time of year.
Within the glasshouses, on the left, you’ll experience a rainforest, a cloud forest, the palm house and giant Amazonian water lilies. There’s a seasonal pop-up café, with tables alongside the River Cherwell, and a riverside view of the boathouse and Magdalen Bridge.
Among the literary landmarks is the 200-year-old ‘Tolkien’s Pine,’ a favourite retreat of J.R.R. Tolkien. While studying at Oxford University, Tolkien often found inspiration sitting beneath this historic tree. And the Cheshire Cat sculpture, which pays tribute to Lewis Carroll’s feline character from Alice in Wonderland, and to the author himself, once a frequent visitor to the gardens.
Magdalen Bridge Boathouse
If you’re feeling brave you can rent a punt for the day and discover Oxford by river. Access the boathouse from Magdalen College Tower, at the lower end of the High Street, by the bridge. For an extra special treat you can hire an experienced punter to chauffeur up to four passengers, with a pre-ordered picnic hamper, booking details here.
The Radcliffe Camera & Bodleian Library
From the Botanic Gardens head up the High Street and turn left into Catte Street – you’ll see the iconic circular Camera in Radcliffe Square. The Radcliffe Camera (the name comes from the latin word for ‘room’) serves as a central reading room for the Bodleian Library. The library was founded 1602 by Sir Thomas Bodley and is one of the oldest in Europe. The Palladian Camera building was completed in 1749 and is the main research library for Oxford University. You can stroll around the library buildings though you’ll need to pre-book a guided tour to enter them.
The Hertford Bridge, known as the Bridge of Sighs, (because of its similarity to the more famous site in Venice), connects the two parts of Hertford College. It was completed in 1914 and is located across the street from the Bodleian Library. New College Lane, Oxford OX1 3BL.
Where to eat
From Radcliffe Square take the backstreet route, along Brasenose Lane – with glimpses of Exeter College and Jesus College – and aim for the numerous cafés on Turl Street. The road here is closed to cars, and you’ll find plenty of outdoor seating. It’s a good place to stop for coffee or lunch and watch the world go by.
After coffee in Turl Street we bought visitor admission tickets for Balliol College and strolled around the gardens and hall. Tickets are £6, or £3 for students and concessions. The college entrance is on Broad Street.
Cherwell Boathouse
Just north of the city centre, away from the hustle and bustle, a converted Edwardian boathouse now houses a restaurant and tea room in a stunning location on the banks of the River Cherwell. We called in for coffee at the Tea House – a charming wooden cabin serving soft drinks, sandwiches, beer and wine. It’s an idyllic spot with indoor and outdoor tables, a floating pontoon and a punt station with boats to hire. We promised ourselves to go back and try the restaurant, in the main boathouse, before the end of the summer. Cherwell Boathouse, Bardwell Road, Oxford OX2 6ST.
We stayed overnight at The Duke of Marlborough, a county inn with rooms, and had a lovely evening meal and fabulous breakfast the following morning. The Duke is dog friendly, a real bonus, as we took Foxy with us. Located just outside Woodstock, a pretty market town eight miles north east of Oxford, and close to Blenheim Palace - the setting for numerous films including Harry Potter, Bridgerton and James Bond (though we didn’t have time to visit Blenheim this trip). The following day we stopped for lunch at The Trout Inn, an old favourite, with a garden by the River Thames. The Trout Inn, 195 Godstow Road, Wolvercote, OX2 8PN.
Join me this week for my book signing event
A love letter to London’s independent businesses & retailers
Come and say hello, this Thursday, 14 May, at The Mercantile in Spitalfields, where I’ll be signing my new book Independent Shops London. The book features over fifty small shops and independent markets around the capital. From bookshops to bakeries, vintage fashion, toyshops, hand-designed jewellery, stationers, haberdashers, paint shops, florists, cheesemongers and delis. My friend Suresh will be DJ-ing, you’ll get the chance to browse The Mercantile’s fabulous stock of conscious clothing and pick up a signed copy of the book. 5pm-6.30pm, The Mercantile, Old Spitalfields Market, 17a Lamb St. London, E1 6EA. Nearest station Liverpool Street.
Vintage Oil Paintings
A lovely, vintage oil on canvas painting of fields in the Japanese countryside. The soft, pastel-coloured palette is edged with green foliage. Painted with a slight impasto texture, the painting measures 46cm x 38cm and is signed on the reverse and front right. £155 available online here.
Cabbages & Apples
This delightful oil painting of cabbages, apples and turnips is the perfect subject for kitchens and comes beautifully framed. Measures £175. Please send me a message if interested.
Thank you for reading and if you’re new here thank you for joining Love Vintage Etc. a monthly newsletter with extra editions on design, vintage, travel, interiors and anything else I think you’ll enjoy. Until next time, lots of love Michelle x
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Perfect timing! Will be in Oxford for 48 hours next week. Thank you.