36 Hours in Seville & Favourite London Shops
A whirlwind stay in Seville and six London shops with timeless appeal
The August bank holiday weekend (UK) is almost here so bookmark these timeless London shops if you’re planning to visit. Plus recommendations for the Andalusian city of Seville.
A far cry from the Costas and cocktails of many a Spanish seaside holiday the Andalusian city of Seville has been a favourite of mine for many years. Since 1992, in fact, when I first stepped off the train for a job interview, fresh from my masters degree and eager to find work at the soon to launch Seville World Expo. Remember that?
Back then much of Seville was undergoing new construction work - six bridges were built across the Guadalquivir river, two of them to link the expo island with central Seville. I have vivid memories of standing in a phone box (mobiles were costly), shouting above the noise of diggers as they re-surfaced the street. There was a fizz of excitement as Seville braced itself for the influx of visitors.
Sad to say I didn’t get the job and after two weeks of lugging a hefty design folio round the city, I returned to London. But the adventure failed to put me off. On the contrary, it made me realise how lucky I’d been to have experienced such a vibrant city and get to know its people and customs.
Fast forward to 2024 and my recent whirlwind trip. We had a two night stay in Santa Cruz (near the cathedral), in a house almost close enough to shake hands with our opposite neighbours. The flamenco school on the corner, beating a constant rhythm of Andalusian passion through open shutters, meant that we could easily locate the house after venturing through the labyrinthian streets.
Away from the busy centre the smaller barrios (neighbourhoods) have a tranquil vibe and locals bid you ‘buenos’ as they carry out daily rituals; mopping doorsteps, running errands for fresh bread and sitting out to cool off in the late evenings, as the merciless summer sun dips behind the roof tops.
With only 36 hours I had a lot to cover on my ‘must do’ list and I longed to return to the Alcázar. I booked my ticket online (€29), the night before to reacquaint myself with the jewel in Seville’s crown. The Alcázar is a historic Royal Palace in the Casco Antiguo, Seville’s old town and formerly the site of the Islamic-era citadel. The stunning architecture combines many different styles and eras including Gothic, Baroque, Islamic and Renaissance.
The gardens are a heady mix of fragrance, charm and magic where ancient palm trees sway high above fountains and water channels covered in elaborate, decorated tiles. The palace balconies offer some of the best views of the gardens; stroll along the first floor walk ways and gaze out over citrus trees, bougainvillea and sweet-smelling jasmine.
Make time to look round the palace interior to appreciate the ancient Mudéjar designs (c.13th - c.16) and other decorative crafts of the era.
Check for special offers when booking your ticket; some include entry to the fascinating Centro Ceramica Triana - a museum dedicated to the art and history of Seville’s ceramics. And if you plan on visiting during the summer months I recommend a morning ticket as temperates can reach 40 degrees during July and August.
Seville’s Flea Market & Antique Ceramics
The flea market in central Seville, runs each Thursday morning and is well worth a browse if you have space in your suitcase for vintage bargains. The Mercadillo del Jueves, (Thursday market) starts in Calle Feria and has the usual flea market finds; second hand clothes, toys and books, as well as one-off treasures such as antique paintings and local Triana* tiles, old coins, keys, vintage prints, linens and furniture. It’s custom to haggle, if you feel comfortable, but do respect the seller’s final price if they won’t budge.
By contrast Populart is a must if you’re on the look out for rare and antique ceramics. Row upon row of original Spanish bowls, jugs, plates and tiles, many of which originate from Seville, will have you rushing to the nearest cash point.
Sancho, the very charming owner, has also amassed an impressive selection of antique and vintage azulejos (tiles) from Triana*, the area of Seville celebrated for its tile production workshops and where ceramicists originally gathered clay from the Guadalquivir riverbank.
Populart was set up by Sancho’s mother, in 1977, and their knowledge is reflected in the quality and choice of the collections. Expect to pay around €300 for an antique c.19th Lebrillo bowl, Triana tiles range from €15 up to €35 for designs dating from the 1880s, €350 for olive oil pots and up to €500 for large serving plates.
I could easily have stayed longer than a couple of days to linger amongst Seville’s many traditional bars and monuments - at least I have an excuse to go back.
The best way, in my opinion, to see this magnificent city over a weekend hop is to earmark a couple of attractions such as the Alcázar and spend the rest of your stay exploring the maze-like old town and Santa Cruz, you really can’t go wrong.
Independent London shops with timeless appeal
David Mellor
David Mellor isn’t new to Chelsea, on the contrary, the classic mid-century designed cutlery and kitchenware is as popular today as it was when the shop first opened in 1969, a stone’s throw from Sloane Square.
Jump to this summer and their handsome green-painted shopfront on Pavillion Road, recently relocated from the original shop, just a couple of streets away.
David Mellor (1930-2009) was awarded Royal Designer for Industry so it’s no surprise to learn that his collections of homewares and industrial designs are exhibited in museums and honoured with countless awards. Mellor designed the National traffic light system, the red square post box and the Abacus bus shelter to name just a few twentieth-century British classics.
The Pavillion Road shop stocks a sophisticated selection of tableware, glassware and ceramics as well as kitchen knives and cookware. My favourite? The silver plate, Pride cutlery set, designed in 1953 and still in production today.
If you’re a fan of mid-century design check out the David Mellor Design Museum at Hathersage in the Peak District, close to Sheffield, where David was born.
David Mellor 190 Pavilion Road, London, SW3 2BF
Townhouse Spitalfields
If the walls of this compelling Georgian house could talk they would tell you stories of its past residents; the French Huguenot immigrants, the Irish weavers and silk merchants and of the many cultural shifts that the area has witnessed around old Spitalfields market. Town House was built in the 1720s but by the 1990s the area was run down and the house had deteriorated. Current owner, Fiona Atkins, bought the property in the late 90s, restoring it to its former glory and basing her antiques business on the lower floors.
Today the shop brims with antique furniture, displays of hand painted ceramics and one-of-a-kind pieces including apothecary bottles from old chemist shops, books and vintage art works. Fiona specialises in French terracotta pots with colour-splash glazes; the highly collectable greens are her personal favourite and originate from Vaucluse in the southeast of France.
Venture below the stairs, to the original Georgian kitchen, where you’ll find a cafe serving delicious home made cakes, teas and coffee.
Townhouse Spitalfields 5 Fournier Street, London E1 6QE
Maison Assouline
The old world elegance of this setting, with its Persian rugs, antique furniture and dizzyingly high ceilings is the perfect backdrop for the collections of lifestyle and culture books. Essentially a publishing house for luxury books Maison Assouline’s London flagship was a former high security bank, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens in 1922.
Maison Assouline’s iconic travel book collections are displayed amongst decorative antiques, rare object d’art curated from around the world and glass cabinets filled with luxury vintage jewels.
Order an espresso martini, from the chic Swans Bar and sink into a leather club chair with a book about the French Riviera. Pure indulgence and just a short hop from Piccadilly Circus.
Maison Assouline 196A Piccadilly, London W1J 9EY
Charing Cross Road Bookshops
If you’ve ever read 84 Charing Cross Road by Helene Hanff - a charming book based on the correspondence between the author in New York and a member of staff at a bookshop in Charing Cross Road - you’re already halfway to imagining how the street looked in its 1930s hey day.
Many of the original bookshops that made the street famous have now sadly disappeared though a handful of long established second hand and antiquarian booksellers do still remain.
Henry Pordes Books
At the Leicester Square end of Charing Cross Road you’ll discover world of vintage and antiquarian books under one roof. Henry Pordes is packed to the ceiling with all genres from art books, science fiction, rare first editions, antiquarian collectibles and an enviable selection of beautifully bound Victorian botanical and wildlife books. From vintage one-offs to second hand Penguin paperbacks this rare delight of a bookshop has something to suit all pockets and the friendly staff are happy to answer any literary enquiries.
Henry Pordes Books 58 - 60 Charing Cross Road, London WC2H 0BB
Straw London
Wicker baskets, straw hats and charming string shopping bags dangle from wooden peg-racks and shelves teem with hand thrown terracotta mugs, vintage dairy bowls and checked tablecloths. It’s a scene that conjures up images of an old farmhouse kitchen when quality crafted objects were made for everyday use.
Straw London started out as a personal passion for owners Emily and Hugo but after Emily’s collection of straw bags and vintage baskets began to take over her living space she decided to set up shop and turned a hobby into a business.
The beautifully curated boutique, on Columbia Road, is just a stone’s throw from the lively bars, cafés and restaurants of London’s east end. And it’s here that Emily’s originality and talent for detail is evident in the welcoming and homely displays that she so adorably creates.
Emily’s search for unique hand crafted pieces regularly takes her to France where she sources much of the stock including, vintage baskets, hand thrown ceramics and pretty vintage inspired clothing.
Straw London 126 Columbia Road, London E2 7RG (Sundays only)
Word on the Water
Paddy has sold second hand books from his Dutch barge for well over a decade and has created a glorious Swallows and Amazons old world feel where books beg to be browsed in this unique waterfront setting. Nicknamed the London Book Barge this compact floating bookstore, moored on Regents Canal near Kings Cross, has a wide selection of second hand stock including contemporary writing, art, classic fiction and photography as well as new books and a popular subscription service for those unable to visit in person. Step into the barge from the tow path and you’ll be greeted by the chattering of a rescued African grey parrot, an unwanted Christmas present from a previous owner and enter through the children’s section to a welcoming seating area covered in patterned textiles and cushions.
The interior is a charming and eclectic mix of antiques with vintage typewriters, a log burning stove and old leather armchairs neatly positioned by the bookcases. You’ll find more books out on deck in shelves fashioned from reclaimed canoes and on the day I visited Paddy was unpacking and sorting fresh stock.
Grab a coffee from nearby Coal Drops Yard and enjoy the gentle sway of the water whilst browsing the shelves or visit in the evening for the poetry slams and live acoustic music events staged on the barge roof.
Word on the Water Regent’s Canal Towpath, Coal Drops Yard, London N1C 4AB
I’d love your feedback
I have a list as long as my arm of ideas for future newsletters but I’d Iove to know what YOU want to see. Whether that’s more travel inspired pieces, vintage stock updates, vintage interiors, gardening inspiration or a mix of things… whatever you love I want to hear. Simply comment below with your feedback. Have a great start to your weekend and thank you, as always, for reading,
Michelle x
I enjoyed the newsletter and thank you for mentioning Maison Assouline - I can’t believe I didn’t know about it! Lovely reading about Seville as I was there in October but I’ll have to go back for Populart. I’d heard about it but there is so much to see and do that I missed it. Where did you stay?
I love Town House Spitalfields and very annoyed that when I was in Spitalfields last year I didn't make it to the antique shop you showcase ! In terms of ideas for newsletters, all of those things sound good to me!